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Sunday Telegraph
March 30th 2003

 

Charlotte Cory finds there is more to Mauritius than fabulous hotels, white sandy beaches and turquoise sea…
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“You come to Mauritius in perfect time, Madam,” my driver beamed at me as we headed up the motorway from the airport towards the capital Port Louis. It was just before six o’clock on a Saturday morning. I am not at my best after an overnight flight and all I wanted was to reach my luxury hotel, collapse on the white sandy beach, sip a pina collada and maybe take a pedalo out on the turquoise ocean. The friendly Mr Ramsurrun had other ideas. “You have short rest. Then you go to the races.”
An hour later, as we circuited Port Louis, Mr Ramsurrun was still talking about the gee-gees. I could not go wrong with Dandy Rouge, and must watch out for Lad of Leinster. “Of course it was the British who built the race course,” he said, insisting on a detour to the old fort that overlooks the city so I could survey my compatriots’ handiwork. Laid out by the British at the beginning of the 19th Century when they took over the island from the French, it stands, appropriately, within a spectacular horseshoe of black volcanic mountains, walking distance from the centre of Port Louis. I agreed that the setting was very beautiful. Mr Ramsurrun shook his head sadly. “I am working this afternoon, Madam, but you will be able to go.” I felt churlish. My head ached and it was hard to be grateful for all the hot tips, or the vivid account of Frankie Dettori’s visit the previous autumn.
When I came to, however, after a few hours of reviving deep sleep, I had probably been dreaming about Dandy Rouge and Lad of Leinster. Or perhaps Mr Ramsurrun’s enthusiasm had infected me because as I was finishing a leisurely light lunch by the pool, I saw a party setting out from the hotel for the races and immediately hitched a lift. I soon discovered that my driver was far from unique in his obsession. Racing is a main topic of conversation in Mauritius and even if you are not the slightest bit interested in horses, it is one of the best ways to see the islanders en masse and get a sense of Mauritius’s rich and varied culture. An astonishing fifth of the entire population congregate at the Champ de Mars race course every Saturday afternoon throughout the season (which runs from May to December, when it becomes too hot for the horses to race), and a considerably higher proportion regularly watch on tv but attend whenever there is a “classic” or big cup. Betting is a way of life and for many poorly paid workers, a win is the only hope they have of affording life’s luxuries. There are three separate racing magazines with huge circulations so that by the time the horses are paraded round the paddock under an ancient overhanging banyan tree before each race, their form has been excitedly debated. I spent a thrilling afternoon in a private box recently been set up for visitors by Jacques Ritter, one of the legends in Mauritius racing (jritter@intnet.mu) and even managed not to lose all my holiday money.
The middle of the race course becomes a lively fun-fair while the races are on, with colourful stalls and snack bars presided over calmly by a statue of that veritable race-goer, Edward VII. It was erected “by a grateful Mauritius” in 1902, presumably in gratitude for the race course. Another colonial monument closeby is a stone obelisk commemorating Lady Gomm, the Governor’s wife, who in 1847 sent out invitations to a ball using the island’s first postage stamps. She rather naughtily posted them the day before they were due to be issued so that the few she licked personally are much prized by philatelists. The last one to be sold cost just under a million pounds. These “blue penny” stamps are celebrated in a superb new museum on the Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis. The Blue Penny Museum manages to make the history of the island’s postal service fascinating and also houses a small art gallery featuring past and contemporary Mauritian artists, a room devoted to Paul and Virginie, Mauritius’s only literary classic, and an attractive museum shop selling historical postcards, notebooks and some of the most tasteful souvenirs on the island. I bought a lovely handwoven cushion based on the Mauritian Picasso, Malcolm de Chazal’s unique colour scheme. The Caudan Waterfront is worth a visit in its own right. Its trendy shops and eateries reminded me of the restored South Street Seaport in Manhattan and the Albert Dock in Liverpool closer to home. For centuries ships plied the oceans between these ports so it is rather touching that all three now enjoy a similar new lease of life.
Ten years after those first blue penny stamps were issued, the plates on which they were printed became so worn, a local engraver was employed to re-draw them. His hideous caricature of Queen Victoria, known as the “monkey head stamp”, caused a scandal. The engraver had a day job as “the 2nd or 3rd Comic” at the municipal theatre and if his acting was as hilarious as his engraving he was surely worth seeing. Sadly that is impossible but the theatre still stands today amid the frenetic traffic in the city centre. Built in 1822, it has been exquisitely restored; the great painted dome, chandelier, gilding and red velvet seats would be at home in Regency London. It has an active programme of events and although I was sorry to miss a production of Shakespeare’s Macbeth in Creole, no one minded my wandering round backstage while the actors were rehearsing.
Sadly the curators at the old Naval Museum at Mahebourg were not so hospitable. I arrived just as they were putting up the shutters half an hour before closing time and found I had to walk round peering at exhibits in the dark. This was a shame as this gracious French mansion dating back to the late 18th century, with enormous wonky staircase and creaking wooden floors has the feel of an old wooden ship and houses fascinating treasures salvaged from shipwrecks, paintings, astrolabes, and gives a real sense of the strategic importance of this tiny island, scarcely bigger than the Isle of Wight. It was said whoever controlled Mauritius had charge of India and it was after the decisive Battle of Grand Port in 1810 which brought Mauritius under English rule, that the two enemy admirals, Sir Nesbit Josiah Willoughby and Capitaine Guy Duperre were both wounded and carried here to receive medical treatment in adjacent beds.
When I discovered that there were giant tortoises at the Royal Botanic - now the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam - Garden at Pamplemousses in the North of the island, I went to visit them. The older among these astonishingly predate the solid Victorian cast iron gates at the entrance bought from the International Exhibition at the Crystal Palace in 1862. The guided tour and well worth hanging about at the entrance while the guide amassed a party. With waterlilies the size of boats and weird and wonderful trees that bleed or produce ink, he had a story to tell about every specimen and was so proprietorial about the plants that he kept pausing in his narration to chase after an urchin who had picked an orchid or shake his fist at another clambering up a rare palm.
The botanic gardens are the perfect place for a picnic but – for all the fabulous restaurants in this fabled hotspot of luxury hotels - the most romantic place to dine in Mauritius is undoubtedly “Eureka”, a magnificently preserved 19th century colonial family home at Moka in the mountains in the centre of the island. With 109 doors and no corridors, the house is full of carved wooden furniture brought by the East India Company from all over the world. As I relaxed in a basketwork chair sipping vanilla tea on the verandah, with the owner’s dog at my feet, a chef walked past carrying two enormous banana leaves which are used as platters for serving food. Authentic Creole cuisine is a specialty here, with cookery demonstrations available in the old kitchens before you eat. Meals are served on the verandah or down in the deep wooded ravine by a waterfall. Independent travellers can stay in one of the three wooden guest houses in the gardens. (http//www.maisoneureka.com)
By now Mauritian cuisine was taking its toll on my waistline so I was grateful to discover where locals go to jog. I drove to the top of the Trou aux Cerfs crater at Curepipe and joined them in a complete circuit round the rim of an extinct volcano, enjoying dramatic views in every direction across the island.
Waiting at the airport to board my return flight, I met some neighbours from home who rather grumpily told me that they had enjoyed Mauritius but would not return. It was too far to come to simply sit by the sea. I admitted that I had not found time for sunbathing. It was only as I enthused about the island, and my newfound interest in philately, botany and horseracing that I realized I never got my ride on a pedalo. And I haven’t even mentioned the dodo. I shall have to go back.

Fact file
Charlotte Cory was a guest of Mauritius Holidays (tel: 0207-501 0808)

 

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